Operations carried out
Cameras - lenses - accessories
Nikon S2 - Dismantling
step by step
This slightly used Nikon S2 was still in good condition.
It is one of the brand’s legendary models, as it marks some major changes compared to its predecessors.
Lever-action, wide, clear viewfinder, magnification of around 0.90, fixed 50mm frame, shutter speed of 1/1000th of a second.
This one needed a good overhaul after years of use.
Fake fast shutter speeds, random slow shutter speeds, slightly rough cocking, randomly locked focusing ring, slightly deformed back which made it difficult to remove.
After the first few disassemblies, there was a lot of dust accumulation and sand, which is the worst enemy of mechanisms.
Translated with DeepL.com (free version)
A Nikon S2 is not particularly difficult to dismantle, but there are some pitfalls to avoid.
It is built with numerous micro-screws that are often blocked by time, humidity or dirt. You must never force them or you risk breaking them. You need to put a small drop of degreaser on each screw, leave it to work and then carefully unscrew it without losing them.
It is advisable to take as many photos as possible (70 for this article), to use a compartmentalised storage box and to classify each part and screw in the order in which it is dismantled.
Meter and cocking lever.
It’s right from the start that you need to be delicate.
The top cover of the counter is screwed on, held in place by a micro-screw that only needs to be unlocked, without removing it completely.
The cover is normally unscrewed from left to right.
Remove the meter by lifting it upwards.
Underneath, the threaded support for the counter cover is fitted and held in place by 3 micro-screws.
The arming lever should be removed carefully, taking care not to pull the return spring out of its seat.
Crank and synchro-flash selector.
The flash stop is unscrewed from left to right using a clamp (Leica type). Avoid damaging it by using ordinary pliers.
The crank has a locking screw on the side that only needs to be unlocked. Then hold the U-shaped part inside the case and unscrew the crank. The central axle and compression spring will release naturally.
Speed button and shutter release.
Here again, micro-screws…
The slow shutter speed selector must be set to 1/30, which leaves a gap towards the back of the camera to reach the shutter speed button screw.
Shutter cocked.
You need to lift the knob and turn it until the screw appears in the aforementioned space.
I use a wooden toothpick to hold it in the up position.
Once again, you need to release the screw without removing it. The knob is unscrewed from left to right, and it’s the cocked shutter that prevents it from rotating normally when cocked.
The slow shutter speed ring is fitted, held in place by a round-headed screw that must be removed.
The shutter release cup is held in place by a thick inner ring. This is locked by a micro-screw (yet another one). To reach it, you have to turn the cup as for the clutch release. There is a hole to see the screw.
This micro-screw only needs to be unblocked and slightly unscrewed, without removing it.
Then check that the cup can still be rotated. Too much unscrewing will block the cup and make it difficult to unscrew the inner ring.
This inner ring can be unscrewed normally.
Cover and front panel.
The cover is held in place by three screws on the drive side and two on the crank side. At this stage, the cover can be removed by lifting it.
The front panel is held in place by four screws, the longest of which is on the cocking lever side.
Interior condition and initial cleaning
Lens mount and self-timer.
The lens mount is fixed by 3 screws. One is countersunk and is fitted at the top, the other two are identical. The block is removed from the front by disengaging the release arm.
Behind the block, the protective plate for the slow speed mechanism is fixed by two screws. Once these have been removed, the plate can be released.
Removal of the slow speed mechanism requires disassembly of the base plate, 4 identical long screws.
Two short screws hold the mechanism in place, which is easy to remove. Be careful not to force the two-pronged fork-shaped cam located under the large drum, which provides the link with the top mechanisms.
Flash hotshoe, cocking and meter drive.
Removing the flash shoe, using three identical screws, gives access to the synchro-flash and shutter mechanism.
Removal of the drive unit, with 3 identical screws, gives access to the gearwheels of this mechanism.
The counter crown is mounted on an eccentric shaft which, when rotated, advances the counter step by step each time the shutter is cocked.
Cleaning and degreasing.
Mechanical operating details.
Anti-reverse pawl, which locks the sprockets in the event of repeated cocking or release of the lever before the end of cocking.
The synchro-flash switch, which can be changed using the synchro speed selector under the crank.
The movement of the rangefinder arm. This is where the focus and height alignment are set.
Slow speed.
Repairs completed, camera 100% functional.
Internal cleaning of the mechanics, and external, complete lubrication, speeds calibrated, rangefinder adjusted.
The back can be removed normally without forcing, the mechanics are smooth and discreet, the lens mount no longer jams, and the internal-mount lens is easy to remove and replace.
Nikon Much more than a legend
